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My unforgettable visit to Venice in the COVID-19 era

October 11, 2020

I was lucky to be able to visit Venice in July 2020, just after the first wave of the COVID-19 pandemic in Europe. The inner borders of Europe had been re-opened and there were no contaminations in Venice at that time. After going through a lockdown in Belgium, I really craved after some time away from home. I booked a ticket on an impulse and left the next day. I didn’t realize how different my trip would be compared to my previous visits. In this post, I will share my experiences and pictures of visiting an almost empty Venice.

 

An empty Piazza San Marco on a sunny Redentore Sunday

 

Preparation will only help you partially

The first difference I encountered was (not) preparing my trip. I usually know what is going on and I plan upfront what I want to do (see my post ‘How I prepare my trips to Venice as a frequent visitor’). Obviously, the fact that I decided only 24 hours before leaving, gave me little time to prepare. However, more importantly, the situation in Venice changes continuously, in line with the evolution of the COVID-19 situation in the region. To give you an example, Palazzo Ducale and the Peggy Guggenheim Collection were only open 2 or 3 days a week. Since then, the opening hours have gradually been extended and they are now operating their normal schedule. A similar situation was the case for hotels and restaurants. Many were closed or only opened during the weekend.

The deserted Canal Grande is the perfect moment to take stunning pictures

 

It was, and still is, an uncertain situation where you must be flexible and take it as it comes. Hence, if you are visiting in the coming months, I suggest to check a few days before and follow the local news while you are there if you don’t want to be standing in front of a closed door. It is impossible to predict how the situation, and the precautionary measures, will evolve. While writing this post, the Italian government is for instance discussing a return to the highest emergency state and stricter safety rules.

Empty streets and rivas in Venice during what is usually one of the most crowded weekends of the year

 

Pros and cons of an empty city

I visited Venice during the Redentore weekend, which is usually one of the busiest weekends in the high season, and one of my favourite moments to spend time in the city. Due to the closed (outer) European borders, the fear of traveling and all the safety measures, I got Venice almost to myself.

Gondoliers waiting for customers near Calle Larga 22 Marzo, which is usually one of the busiest gondola stations

 

The positive side, for me as a visitor, was the empty city which I could admire at ease. I found Piazza San Marco almost deserted on a sunny Sunday afternoon. I could cross the Rialto bridge without bumping into people. Streets were empty and perfect to photograph. I discovered a statue on Palazzo Ducale which I never noticed as it is usually too crowded to stand still there. No one was taking pictures and blocking the Bridge of Sighs. There were no street vendors in front of the luxury shops in Calle Larga 22 Marzo. I could continue with more examples, but the pictures do tell the story.

The Redentore church was one of the most crowded places during my visit

 

On the other hand, the 2020 Architecture Biennale had been cancelled, as well as all the national pavilions and temporary exhibitions that coincide with it. I really missed the Biennale and the opportunities to enter palazzos or galleries with temporary exhibitions as I love these unexpected discoveries. However, it left me plenty of time to wander around the city. I did for instance visit the San Pantalon church for the first time and I loved it.

The statue in the niche of Palazzo Ducale which I always overlooked

 

The exhibition ‘Le muse inquiete (The Disquieted Muses). When La Biennale di Venezia Meets History’ had not started yet when I was there. It opened on August 28 and runs until December 8. Several other exhibitions have been opened in the meantime as well.

 

COVID-19 safety and sanitary measures

Overall, I felt quite safe during my entire trip. The only time I felt some discomfort was in the plane which was completely full. The airports (both in Brussels and Venice) were practically empty, so it is easy to keep a safe social distance. There were also plenty of hand sanitizing stations. Face masks are obliged in the airports and planes, so make sure to wear a comfortable one as you will have to wear it hours on end.

The deserted platform for the water taxis at the Marco Polo airport

 

Once in Venice, the rules were relatively easy to follow as they were quite similar to the ones I was applying in Belgium. A social distance of 1 m is considered safe. Face masks were mandatory inside (hotels, restaurants, shops, museums, churches, …) and could only be taken off when seated at a table. They were also mandatory on the vaporetti. It was at that moment no longer required to wear a face mask outside. However, the area around the Redentore church was quite crowded and social distance was not possible, so I put mine on as a precaution. Hands also need to be sanitized before entering a building. Finally, some places (e.g. airports, hotels, museums) might check your body temperature before allowing you access.

Face masks are mandatory on the vaporetto

 

When you stay at a hotel, you have to wear your face mask in all public areas, such as the lobby and corridors. You can only take it off in your room or seated in the bar or restaurant. At the Sina Centurion Palace (see my post ‘Sina Centurion Palace: A luxury hotel with a splendid view’), breakfast was no longer served at a buffet but at the table, but I don’t know if this is a general rule in Venice or not. Even though a hotel feels a bit less like home these days, I enjoyed a wonderful stay and felt safe with the sanitary measures taken by the hotel.

Strict sanitary measures applied as from the arrival at Sina Centurion Palace

 

Make sure to check, and apply, the measures in vigour when you are visiting Venice. These rules might differ between countries (e.g. social distance is 1 m in Italy, whereas it’s 1.5 m in Belgium) and they can change overnight. The locals follow the rules very strictly and take the entire COVID-19 situation to heart.

 

An economic disaster

The downside of the empty Venice is of course the economic impact on the small businesses in the city: restaurants, bars, tourist guides, shops, … Seeing shops on Rialto closed before 6 PM or restaurants who only open during the weekend or offer a limited menu indicates it’s a very challenging time. No/less visitors also means no/less income. If you cannot come to Venice, you can still support those who offer virtual experiences or sell online (see for instance ‘How to enjoy Venice during lockdown’ or ‘How to help Venice and the Venetians after the acqua alta’).

Empty streets imply no/less income for local businesses

 

It is a delicate balance between a quiet Venice which can be enjoyed by visitors and residents, and an economic situation which is viable for the local businesses. Let’s hope we can evolve into a sustainable city in the future. But first, let’s get through this terrible pandemic and stay safe.

 

Take care!

 

 

 

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18 Comments


Pat
October 11, 2020 at 19:19
Reply

It must feel rather eery, being in a city which is usually so crowded, and which is now so empty. It must also seem rather ironic for those who recently have decried the amount of tourists and who now are struggling with making an income. Striking a happy balance will be the way forward when this pandemic eases off but it wont be easy.



    Katia
    October 12, 2020 at 12:57
    Reply

    Hi Pat,

    It did indeed feel strange to wander around in areas which I usually avoid during daytime as I think they might be crowded but which were rather desolated when I was there in July. It seems that the situation has already changed by now and the city is no longer empty.

    Best regards
    Katia – The Venice Insider

Joan H. Laurino
October 11, 2020 at 19:56
Reply

Thank you so kindly for your excellent report. I know Venice very well and loved seeing many areas I’ve walked. I was amazed to learn that churches are open, while here any place of worship in the USA are closed.

Again, enjoyed the photos too.



    Katia
    October 12, 2020 at 12:57
    Reply

    Hi Joan,

    Glad to read that you enjoyed the post and the pictures. Churches were indeed open to visit, even though you had to follow the social distance rules and not all seats could be used.

    All the best
    Katia – The Venice Insider

Kat
October 11, 2020 at 20:37
Reply

Katia, thanks for this interesting report, really enjoyed reading it!
I was there during the same time as you and stayed for two weeks – it was wonderful and somehow sad at the same time… we still managed to do a lot of things – some of the more memorable ones were a proper glass blowing workshop on Murano, a bicycle food tour around Sant’ Erasmo on the one day it rained, and renting a boat for the day to explore the lagoon. Wonder what it’ll be like next year (next trip scheduled for January, hopefully it will work out…).



    Katia
    October 12, 2020 at 12:58
    Reply

    Dear Kat,

    What a coincidence you were there at the same time. The boat trip sounds a lot of fund. Did you go to some specific islands? I also spent a day on the beach in Lido while I was there, but I will write more about that experience in one of my future posts (probably towards the spring).

    I certainly hope you can make it in January. Will you stay again for 2 weeks?

    Take care.
    Katia – The Venice Insider

      Kat
      October 16, 2020 at 08:14

      Hi Katia,
      The boat trip was loads of fun! We mainly explored the northern Lagoon, went swimming off a nice beach on Sant’Erasmo, had a picnic on Torcello, stopped for coffee on Burano and also visited San Francesco del Deserto. It was a wonderful summer day and so nice to be on the water with our own little boat :-). Looking forward to read about your day on the Lido!
      I wish I could stay for 2 weeks again in January, but it will be “only” 8 or 9 days. (Can’t wait to be there!)

        Katia
        October 18, 2020 at 13:44

        Hi Kat,

        Waw, that sounds like an amazing day! I must try this as well. Did you rent the boat with a driver or did you sail it yourself?

        Have a nice Sunday!
        Best regards

        Katia – The Venice Insider

Saskia Versprille
October 11, 2020 at 22:05
Reply

Thanks for the report!
I have planned my trip in the first week of novembre so covid situation will be a bit the same I suppose….or even worser..
I will see and hope to have ,in a safe way, contact with the people of Venice.



    Katia
    October 12, 2020 at 12:58
    Reply

    Hi Saskia,

    Enjoy your trip in November! It seems that the situation has already changed by now and the city is no longer empty, but I’m sure it will still be totally different from your previous visits.

    I assume you are aware of the fact that Belgians are now obliged to take a test upon arrival in Italy?

    Have fun!
    Katia – The Venice Insider

Janet Escott
October 11, 2020 at 22:47
Reply

I have just returned to UK after 2 wonderful weeks in Venice. It was good to walk around without the usual crowds. But a sadness overhangs the city. Some hotels remain closed and artisan shops have few if any customers. The exhibition of American studio glass on San Giorgio was excellent. I long to return.



    Katia
    October 12, 2020 at 12:59
    Reply

    Dear Janet,

    Thanks for the tip on the exhibition in Stanze del Vetro. I saw some images and it looks wonderful.

    Best regards
    Katia – The Venice Insider

Saskia Versprille
October 13, 2020 at 09:28
Reply

Thanks Katia !
I know about the obliged test, we will do it here in Belgium 3 days before we go.
In Belgium the goverment gets extremely stressed so I hope we will not get a lockdown the coming days.
If you are interested I’ll send you some reports and pictures about the city in autumm time.
Tanti saluti
Saskia



    Katia
    October 14, 2020 at 09:54
    Reply

    Saskia,

    I do hope you can still leave early November. Feel free to send me some feedback and pictures. I love to see Venice at different times of the year.

    I haven’t visited the Royal Gardens (in front of San Marco) yet, so I don’t have any pictures yet to add in my post on gardens. If you happen to pass by and don’t mind that I share your picture (mentioning your copyright of course), I would love to use it.

    Enjoy your trip!
    Katia – The Venice Insider

Charles Williams
October 13, 2020 at 17:04
Reply

Hi Katia. Was in Venice for 10 days towards the end of September. As I have only visited during Carnival or November before I have nothing to compare with but it was definitely quiet. Some shops and restaurants were still closed, the top hotels were barely ticking over and there were hardly any queues. I felt safer in Venice than back in the UK. Everyone was grateful that you had made the effort to get there, for me it was third time lucky as I had two previously booked holidays cancelled. I hope to get back soon.

Nice to see you back

Regards, Charles



    Katia
    October 14, 2020 at 10:01
    Reply

    Hi Charles,

    Thanks for the update on the situation at the end of September. And glad to hear that you were able to make a trip this year. Let’s hope we can soon return to Venice without having to worry about health and safety.

    Take care
    Katia

Paul Sheridan
December 22, 2020 at 01:19
Reply

Hello–delightful site– I come to it after reading many (not all!) Donna Leon books.

Can you tell me about the new, large, low, building seen as the header photo at this page of your site?

Grazie.



    Katia
    December 23, 2020 at 17:01
    Reply

    Hi Paul,

    The flat building is the train station in Venice. The current building in modernist style was designed by architect Angiolo Mazzoni in 1924. It took until 1943 before it was finished, with the cooperation of architect Virgilio Vallot. The train hall was only completed in 1952, based on the design of Paul Perilli. You can read about it in my post ‘Cannaregio: A walk along artisans and history‘ where it’s the starting point of the walk.

    As you are a Donna Leon fan, you might also like to follow the walk which takes you to different locations of her books: ‘Follow Brunetti on a suspenseful trip around Venice‘.

    All the best
    Katia – The Venice Insider

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